Accelerator Cable

The cable is from SmallCar and I really had no problems, except that I found the instructions on the web site a bit nebulous.  It's pretty easy.  The front half of the van has a sleeve that the cable feeds into, and on the rear of the van you route it and tie it up as needed.  In the pic below, the new cable was shoved forward and the junction will be tied up to the cross member directly above. 

 

Cable Anchored in Engine Bay:  I think entering the left side of the engine bay is the most common, but I saw some photos with the cable just slopped over the engine, so I was looking to disguise it a bit.  On my Syncro it enters the bay on the right side as shown here.  Obviously I don't want to make sharp bends, but it will hide under the throttle body cover pretty well.

This pic also shows the heater line coming off the top left of the engine into the burp tank, then heading toward the front. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cable Terminated at Throttle Body: The cable attaches by a removable plate that must be drilled out per the installation instructions.  My plate was bent and I straightened it as much as possible.  Whether due to this or not, the 'C' clip was very difficult to get on and I never had the feeling it was all seated and happy.  It's still there so maybe it's good.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Front End Foot Feed Connection:  At the front the accelerator mechanism cover comes off and the cable gets trimmed and fitted to a "ferrule" (correct term?).   I didn't like the idea of using a set screw on cable so I made up my own solution.  The pic shows a brass ceiling hook from my local Ace Hardware.  I straightened it and drilled into the shaft, then crimped and soldered the cable.  It also gave me more adjustment room since it is longer than the one provided. 

I found the best thing for cutting the cable was my  Dremel tool.  It's clean and quick and maybe a strand or two of the cable comes loose, but is easily twisted back into place.

I removed the boot completely to get the right adjustment, then marked the ferrule and replaced the boot after I had the adjustment right.

The white plastic cable sheath needs to be secured tightly by hose clamps to keep it from moving relative to the boot, so only the cable moves when the pedal is pressed.

Here's a tip:  When driving and the accelerator pedal goes down but doesn't come back far enough, don't pull hard to get the pedal back up.  The rod is clipped onto the back of the pedal and will come loose, leaving you with a worse problem.  Of course I wouldn't know first hand.  I just surmise that could happen.  ☺

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