Installing Motor

More Disclaimer:  Remember, don't laugh.  This is a non-mechanic with no help, feeling his way along.  Later I'll tell the story about the only time I had help in this project.

The motor still on its skids with the tranny bolted up, the whole thing got shoved underneath.  The only way I could lift this beast up onto the floor jack was with my hoist.  So the legs of the hoist are straddling the floor jack and I get it up far enough for the floor jack to take over.  This is just about the position it winds up in when installed.   Notice that the "moustache bar" is way back from its original position.  That's what two extra cylinders do for us.  I had to remove over an inch from the rear of the brackets on the moustache bar for them to clear the body.   This pic was taken before the bar was modified.

Note:  The silly bungee cords hold the 4x4 skids up to the bottom of the motor when the hoist lifts it.  This is because they otherwise would fall off.  In this pic, the cord has slipped suggestively off the shoulder.  Two 4x4s are the perfect size when the original oil pan is still installed.  To make my skids more effective I inserted two carriage bolts on the bottom of each lower 4x4.  This greatly reduces the friction with the floor.

 

Floor Jack Takes Over: With the rear of the motor resting on the legs of the hoist my next priority was to get the front of the transmission bolted up.  Here the floor jack reaches under and rotates the nose up so I can assemble the front mounts and bolt it up loose.

I don't have lots of photos from this stage.  After the nose was bolted up, I stopped to dress and tidy up all the wires and hoses and skull out where everything would go. 

After this the rear of the motor is supported by a 4x4 under the motor mount brackets between two jacks.  The hoist then gets retired to become a permanent tripping hazard in my ever-shrinking garage.

 

 

 

Relocated motor hanger. The new motor position is so far back that the hanging bar has way less frame member to hold it.   I had to remove about an inch from the rear of the bracket and re-drill the mounting holes.  The rear hole is very near the edge of the frame member.   This was a real pain for me to drill and I am not happy with it.  At least one other EG-33 installer has used a piece of angle in place of the original "doubling" plate.  The two bolts that hold the bumper on are right there and could be used to hold the angle in place. 

 

 

 

 

 

Later the mount was changed to use the two bumper bolts.  The pic below is a link to a web page that shows this a bit better:

 

 

 

ECU Goes Here:  You have to remove the rear seat box to get the harness through.  The connectors have to be fed through the entry hole one at a time.  I cut my grommet thinking I could re-install it, but can't get it to stay.  Other idea is pending.

I also did not shorten any of the wires in the harness.  They are only a little bit too long and the ECU can still reside in the original steel enclosure. 

What a treasure trove when you take out the seat.  Found an Afro comb, most of a pack of Big Red  gum (brittle and not much taste), condom wrapper, about 80 cents, and a genuine Leatherman tool, all from the PO.

 

 

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