Timing Belt Replacement

 

 

I finally got rid of the original shipping tire and pallet remnants.  After a small memorial service I put 4x4 blocks under the exhaust ports, drilling holes for the manifold studs.  This works okay for me, and I can add blocks if I need more height.  Yeah, I know I need more height.  I meant if I need more working height.

 

Rust on the Timing Belt Hardware

This photo shows an unpleasant surprise.  When I got the timing belt covers off, I discovered rust, apparently from seeping in at the wrecking yard. 

Unpleasant and expensive! The two smooth idler wheels and the tensioner wheel were rusted.  Two of them had surface rust I could remove, but one was badly pitted.  Taking advice, I ordered all three of them and the tensioner mechanism from SubaruParts.com.  All the pulleys spin really nice and smooth, so I'll not replace the others.  The crank angle sensor wheels are rusty, but I don't think the sensors care too much.  I'll buff off the rust when I get a little more room to work around them. 

 

 

Holding Tight While Removing Nuts

At right shows a solution to holding the cam pulley wheel while un-loostening the nut.  Subaru has a tool for that, but I think it's considered cheating to use one.  Besides, the local dealer said he couldn't get me one.  I didn't bother to ask if I could borrow one from their shop.  This works well.  One vice grip seizes the belt to something stationary and the other tightens the belt so it doesn't slip.  It's important to remember to use the old belt for this (d'oh!).

 

 

 

Cam Angle Sensor is Messy

I don't know how concerned I need to be about this one:  The cam angle sensor's connector is all full of oil.  The rocker cover has a fair amount of oil around it and I hope I solve this by replacing the rocker cover gaskets.

(Afterward):  The oil is from the fill tube above, not from leakage. 

 

 

 

Cleaning Up

On the right, the motor after a "whore's bath" of just the front end.  I used "Gunk", WD-40, carburetor cleaner, a paint brush and rags to clean off as much grime as I could.  The brand of carburetor cleaner is banned in California, but I found it to go especially nice with Sirius' "The Vault - Deep Cuts Classic Rock".  It would be very thoughtful  if folks would have their engines steam cleaned before they decide to crash or scrap their cars  I'll take extra care to completely de-grease the entire belt path before it is installed. 

The new idlers, new tensioner, tensioner wheel, cam oil seals and water pump are installed. 

 

 

 

Timing Marks - Belt Installed

It took me a long time to get the nerve to "pull the pin" on the tensioner.  Here is the "new right" side pulley.  I think the hardest part of this job is going to be re-stamping all the 'L's to 'R's and 'R's to 'L's and "RH"s to "LH"s etc.   ;o)

This is so straightforward it scares me.  The big arrow on the cam pulleys point straight up.  The outer sprocket on the crank has a mark that goes straight up.  The OEM belt has a dotted line halfway between the two solid lines.  The dotted line goes over the crank timing mark and the two solid lines go over the tic marks twenty some degrees away from the large arrow.  I don't know why we need the mark on the inner belt cover wall. 

Admittedly, the only doubt is the direction of the belt.  In the Subaru shop manual there is a big arrow pointing to the right.  But on the belt, in the Subaru text by the dotted mark, there is only a funny little arrow symbol I don't think is very obvious.

You can see the two new little bypass hoses at lower left.  I almost goofed.  I was using worm gear type clamps to hold them when I realized the screws would not be accessible with the belt cover back on.  So I ordered the OEM clips and used them instead.

 

Next - Rocker Cover Gaskets and Beyond