Tranny is Back

Before the engine and transmission are re-installed, the tranny needs to be filled with the proper fluid.  I'm using the recommended Redline MT-90.  It's thick and flows slowly in my cold garage so I'm doing something else while it fills.

 

 

Once the mating ritual is accomplished, the two make a really nice-, if not ominous-looking unit.  What's been left out here is the installation of the flywheel and clutch assembly.  Mechanics would breeze through this, but novices like me might not know that there's such a thing as a clutch alignment tool that takes the place of the transmission's input shaft when the clutch is assembled.  Makes sense, just never thought about it before. 

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It looks like brownish dirt on top of the tranny, but it's just a lighting effect.

The other issue I have left out is that of the four studs in the Kennedy Engineering adapter plate.  They are 10mm grade 8.8 studs and the lower studs have been known to break.  I found this out after it was too late, but had an opportunity to tear it down and upgrade the studs.  The two lower studs were removed, the holes drilled out and 7/8" SAE grade 8 bolts were used instead.  In addition, the two 10mm threaded holes in the engine were tapped completely through to allow for longer bolts that hold the transfer plate to the engine. 

 

Defacing the Starter:

After the enjoyment of seeing these two get together, some less-fun chores awaited.  The starter's top hole has a nicely formed ridge that is intended to hold the head of a bolt while you turn the other end.  Problem is that it's not a bolt there, it's a nut, since you are placing the starter over the threaded studs of the adapter plate.  The metal is soft and the ridge comes off pretty easily.  I Dremmeled a lot of it away then used a coarse file to flatten it out.

Again not wanting to mess around, this was a brand new (remanufactured) Bosch starter I bought  through my mechanic.  I did have problems later and returned it under warranty.  Since my mechanic is also a friend I told him that the core I was returning was modified.  He didn't care and they didn't notice.

 

Syncro Transmission Differential Lock Actuator:

The other thing that goes back on while the tranny is out is the differential lock actuator.  It uses the air signal from the Syncro dash to lock the differential so both rear wheels are driven at the same time.  The actuator has a small shaft that fits into the push rod on the transmission.  The small roll pin shown is used to lock the pin to the push rod.  It is covered by a rubber sleeve that has to be manhandled out of the way.  Originally the two air line ports on the blue/black actuator pointed "UP" as shown here.  But with this starter I had to rotate it and the two ports are now on the bottom.  The two pin electrical connector is for the "Diff Lock Engaged" signal for the light on the dash.

 

 

 

Possible Helpful Hint:

It's not necessary to pound the pin back in.  This pic shows using some leverage to press the pin back down with very little effort or hassle.

I always wonder how I would manage to make repairs like replacing a starter while on the road.  With the Syncro, you have to drop the engine down to access the starter.  I'll say one thing for sure.  This little diff lock actuator would wait for the comfort of my garage to be re-installed.

 

 

 

 

 

Next:  Mating Ritual...